Southern Calamari (Squid)

Also known as Squid, calamari, southern reef squid

A broad oval mantle with fins running almost the full length of the body — that continuous fin skirt is the quick way to separate southern calamari from arrow squid, which have short triangular fins at the tail end only. The mantle is thick and firm and the colour shifts from mottled red-brown to near-translucent white depending on the squid's mood. Don't confuse them with cuttlefish (broad and flat, an internal bone, a fringe of small fins running the body length) or with octopus. Arrow squid are caught off the same jetties and are perfectly edible, just softer and less prized.

Yes — squid is arguably Perth's best seafood catch, full stop. Sweet, tender white mantle with a clean flavour and none of the ammonia note you get off tired supermarket squid. Clean the tube, pull the skin off, score the inside in a diamond pattern, and cook it either very fast or very slow — anything in between turns it to rubber. Fast means salt-and-pepper calamari, a hot grill, or a flash through a wok; slow means an hour in a tomato braise. A really fresh one is excellent as sashimi. Bigger squid have a thicker, chewier mantle and suit braising better; small ones fry beautifully. Don't bin the wings and tentacles — they're the best part. Use a squid spike for a quick kill and cleaner flesh. It freezes only passably; the texture toughens, so freeze it raw in portions and use it for cooked dishes.